My First Coat! A Review of V9136

It’s here! My first coat! I am so happy with how this turned out and it has got me motivated to try more coats. I have had this pattern, Very Easy Vogue 9136, in my stash for awhile and it was a great first coat pattern to sew. It is very oversized, drop shoulders, patch pockets, and no lining. I love, LOVE, the collar on this coat and all the drama it brings.

I read a few reviews before getting stated and everyone said to size down, so even though my measurements put me right at a medium, I made the size small. I think it was the right call as it is still oversized but not too overwhelming. I did shorten the belt in the back by about an inch so that it would cinch in a bit more, but other than that I made this pattern exactly as called for in the instructions.

I bought this boiled wool blend coating in the color turmeric from Stylemaker Fabrics over Black Friday and was unsure if it was the right weight. In the end I think it works, but this coat could absolutely hold up a more substantial, thicker wool. I also think this coat would benefit from a lining and I don’t think it would be hard to do.

The construction of this coat is fairly straight forward and honestly it is a relatively simple make. I took the time to make fabric covered buttons and I love the look of them. There was much debate (online in reviews and in my house!) on the placement and number of buttons. This is an asymmetrical coat and the one button floating there bugs some. The solution has been to just add one more button above it. I didn’t do that, but it was a hot topic on the review boards.

The only part of this coat I don’t love is the back yoke facing. I didn’t have enough fabric (story of my life…) so I used a cotton in my stash. It is fine and no one will see it, but the self fabric would make the insides as pretty as the outsides. It’s also why there is a seam in the yoke, but that doesn’t bother me at all.

Other than that, I am very proud of this make. I didn’t know if I’d love the dropped shoulders but I will say this silhouette makes wearing a coat with sweaters and bulkier tops very practical. It is warm and cozy and I look forward to wearing it all winter long!

Like I said, this is a great beginning coat and it has got me revved up to keep going and try some new techniques. Next month I have a lined rain coat coming up and then a blazer after that. I think near the end of the year I may try another warm winter coat. I don’t know that I would ever make this particular pattern again any time soon, simply because it is just such a statement coat, but I do think it would work in a lot of different fabrics.

Custom Cup Sizes

With my last make I mentioned how I’ve been trying to use what I have, which is why this top is made from this kelly green rayon challis that’s been in my stash for a very long time. I thought it would be great to try and make a wearable muslin out of this pattern.

I’ve been wanting to make this top for awhile, I really love the cut of the shoulders. I didn’t realize it at the time, but this is a pattern that has different pieces dependent on your cup size.

This is a game changer.

I’ve been having issues fitting tops lately. I have broad shoulders but a small bust, but my rib cage isn’t particularly small. So when I use my measurements and pick my size, I end up with gaping or weird pulling and it drives me crazy. I’ve decided I need to start making small bust adjustments to my patterns, and I’ll be sure and share the results when I do!

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But with this pattern I was able to cut out the size 12 in the A cup and wouldn’t you know, the one time I take the time to make a muslin, it fit perfectly! I’m so excited to make this out of a fabric I love and mix it in with other pieces.

You can tell I got careless on the arm bindings (I was in a rush and after the Calvin dress I was over bias tape!) but otherwise this is a well made garment that maybe I can figure out how to wear. That color isn’t one I have a lot of, but we will see what I come up with.

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Here are some stats and links!

Pattern: Very Easy Vogue V9109, version A

Size/Adjustment: I made a straight size 12 with the A cup sizing

Fabric: a green rayon challis that has been in my stash a very long time

Final thoughts/comments: Very happy to have tried the custom cup sizing, it made a huge difference in getting a great fit on the first try. Will be looking for more fabric to make this in!