First Make of the Year!

This week has been a little crazy (and listen, I wrote this out before the crumbling of democracy yesterday…) The kids are home for a buffer week before going back to school and most of my days have been spent helping them with science fair projects (note to self; I never ever ever want to be a science teacher). I did get to slip in a few hours for some sewing, look at me actually making my resolutions happen!, and I’m happy to share my first make of 2021 with you.

This fabric has been in my stash for a few years now and I could just never commit to a project. It’s a gorgeous floral print, but the fabric was really narrow and that limited what it could be. I got in my head that it would make a beautiful Wilder Gown so I started cutting it out and realized I didn’t have near enough fabric (so maybe I haven’t changed much in the new year?) I decided to push ahead though and see what it would look like at a tunic length.

I… kind of love it? And I actually think I might wear it more than a full length dress?

This is the size medium and basically it’s the bodice from the dress with long sleeves and whatever was left of my fabric. It’s very loose and flowy (read comfortable) but the beautiful fabric makes it feel like I dressed up a little bit. I have it paired here with skinny jeans and I imagine that is how it will probably get worn. Easy for getting on the ground and playing with Sam but cute enough to run out and…. do whatever it is that people did in the before times?!

This pattern is hugely popular in the sewing world and I feel like the last person to make it! It is a really easy sew and I get why people are obsessed with it. You know I love nightgown adjacent, and this feels like exactly that. If you were newer to sewing and looking at this pattern, I would highly recommend it. If I can get something cute out of it with way less fabric than it calls for, I have all the faith in the world that you could make something cute for yourself! Plus fitting is easy and drama level is high. What more could you ask for?

Custom Cup Sizes

With my last make I mentioned how I’ve been trying to use what I have, which is why this top is made from this kelly green rayon challis that’s been in my stash for a very long time. I thought it would be great to try and make a wearable muslin out of this pattern.

I’ve been wanting to make this top for awhile, I really love the cut of the shoulders. I didn’t realize it at the time, but this is a pattern that has different pieces dependent on your cup size.

This is a game changer.

I’ve been having issues fitting tops lately. I have broad shoulders but a small bust, but my rib cage isn’t particularly small. So when I use my measurements and pick my size, I end up with gaping or weird pulling and it drives me crazy. I’ve decided I need to start making small bust adjustments to my patterns, and I’ll be sure and share the results when I do!

ACS_1259

But with this pattern I was able to cut out the size 12 in the A cup and wouldn’t you know, the one time I take the time to make a muslin, it fit perfectly! I’m so excited to make this out of a fabric I love and mix it in with other pieces.

You can tell I got careless on the arm bindings (I was in a rush and after the Calvin dress I was over bias tape!) but otherwise this is a well made garment that maybe I can figure out how to wear. That color isn’t one I have a lot of, but we will see what I come up with.

ACS_1261

Here are some stats and links!

Pattern: Very Easy Vogue V9109, version A

Size/Adjustment: I made a straight size 12 with the A cup sizing

Fabric: a green rayon challis that has been in my stash a very long time

Final thoughts/comments: Very happy to have tried the custom cup sizing, it made a huge difference in getting a great fit on the first try. Will be looking for more fabric to make this in!

True Bias Calvin Dress

ACS_1241

I have been trying to use what I have when it comes to sewing and this most recent make is an old Needle Sharp box that I picked up sometime last year. I never got around to making it in the warmer months so I set it aside. I’ve been drawn towards a specific color palette lately, and this darker gray fabric wasn’t calling to me. However, I have had great success with True Bias patterns and I always love a summer dress. Besides, it’s not like I have a lot of other things going on right now!

The construction of the dress itself is fairly simple and it comes together pretty quickly. The most fiddly part is the bias tape, you make your own and then use it for both sides of the bodice, the arm holes, and the straps. This takes a bit of work, but nothing too hard, and the ready to wear look of it when it’s finished is worth the effort!

I had a bit of trouble fitting the bodice. I think I need to start making small bust adjustments something I do regularly with patterns and I will try it if I make this one again. I love the style of this, it feels very now with the midi length and slip dress/90s throwback vibe. It will be fun to see how much wear I get out of it in the coming months!

ACS_1243

Here are some stats and links

Pattern: The Calvin Dress from True Bias, there is a top version as well

Sizing/alterations: I made up the size 6. It was a little big in the bust for me so I pinched in the sides, maybe an inch in total? In the future I would like to try a small bust adjustment with this pattern

Fabric: This is a beautiful sandwashed rayon that came in myNeedle Sharp subscriptionbox. I love the drape of it and it reads almost brown/gray which is a new color for me.

Thoughts/Comments: Fairly simple to construct, minus making all your own bias tape (but it’s good practice!) I love the length of it and it feels like a cool style that is different from anything else I own. Will be fun to layer up some as the weather gets colder here.